Day Tripping From Puerto Vallarta
By Josef Kandoll W.

Every area has its hidden gems. How many of these outside of Puerto Vallarta have you visited?

A favorite of locals, especially during the hot summer, are the towns in the Sierra Madre Mountains. With paved roads, access with a vehicle is easier than ever. In earlier years it was only accessible by horseback, particularly during the summer rains when the rocky passes would wash out. Passenger buses take passengers to La Estancia, Mascota and Talpa de Allende, but San Sebastián del Oeste is off the bus route. Primary access for tourists used to be by small planes operating out of the charter terminal, sold as tours into the mountains with a morning flight out and afternoon return.

While summer is a great time to escape the coastal heat, winter brings bone-chilling cold that doesn’t reach down to the coast. Consider appropriate wear based on the time of year you go. Stay for the weekend or stay longer. Accommodations vary from historic haciendas to family-run posadas, classic inns and small boutique hotels.

EAST

San Sebastián del Oeste is a 16th-century mining town founded by the Spanish in their eternal search for gold and riches. Primarily producing silver, this settlement was connected to the coast in the constant need for salt, hauled by burro up through the mountains along the river. The stone buildings and winding streets provide a picturesque walk through history, while the town plaza is one of the few in the country built on a sloping hillside with the church parallel to it beyond the main square.

Mascota continues to be a thriving agricultural town serving not only the coast but inland as well. While this town may be the largest of the three mentioned here, it probably receives the least amount of tourism—but it’s not for lack of accommodations, places to see or things to do. It’s simply not had a focus on tourism due to its strong agricultural base. Several posadas and inns are some of the best accommodations in the mountains, and the flower-filled main plaza is a good place for people watching. But they may be watching you as well!

Talpa de Allende gained fame decades ago as home of the Virgin of Talpa, receiving pilgrims from around the surrounding countryside on special saint’s days throughout the year, more than quadrupling the population (by some estimates). Also known as “La perla escondida” (the hidden pearl), accommodations vary from boarding houses to hotels, inns and dormitories with privately operated public showers. Innumerable cafeteria-style restaurants and temporary puestos (stands) are great for grub—but don’t forget to visit the stores selling local goods and merchandise.

Famous outside of Talpa and throughout Mexico are the dulces, or sweets, that are produced locally. Created from what was available in the mountain climate, look for dulces del arrayán (a smaller fruit related to the guava), rolls of guava (guayaba) paste with cream filling, coffee, jars of peach preserves and more. You’ll find numerous stores that sell leather goods and products made from wood. One of the artisan specialties is the work in chicle (gum from the juice of the chicle tree), carved into flowers, baskets, hearts, candelabras and even virgins that resemble wax figurines.

The main plaza with the twin-towered Basílica de Nuestra Señora del Rosario de Talpais the obligatory stop for viewing the virgin, but don’t miss the fascinating museum in the block behind the church. During the year, several romerías or pilgrimages are slated to visit the virgin (Feb. 2, March 11–19, Holy Week, May 12, Sept. 10, Oct. 7). Check your dates before visiting since reservations are impossible if you don’t plan in advance. During the month of November, up to 11 virgins from other areas of Mexico visit the Virgin of Talpa during the “meeting of the Marías.”

[Originally created (or “discovered”) by the Tarasco Indians of Michoacán, the dark virgin was brought to Talpa in 1585 and has since been credited with hundreds upon hundreds of miracles.]

NORTH

North along highway 200 toward Compostela there are easy getaways to the coastal towns of Sayulita and San Francisco. Both pueblos are growing, with developments of condominiums, private villas and homes looming on the horizon and populating the beachfront lots. Accommodations for visitors vary from hotels and inns to luxurious villas with swimming pools, swim-up bars, private gymnasiums and exercise facilities.

Sayulita is an internationally recognized destination on the surfers’ circuit. While home to an annual surfing competition, this beachfront town sports a surprisingly international flavor in stores, boutiques, restaurants and cybercafés. A number of creative artists live here with local classes offered throughout the season. Luxurious villa stays are offered on the hills above town, featuring amazing views of the sea.

San Francisco (San Pancho to locals) is somewhat slower-growing, but going through changes nevertheless. The beach is wider and longer, with fewer people and services offered only at the main beach entrance at the end of the main street. Turn north toward the resort area and you’ll wind past new construction and eventually arrive at a smaller, even less-populated beach. The polo grounds are north of the main street shortly after you enter town, just before the football field. Polo exhibition matches are held on Saturday during the season.

SOUTH

South along highway 200 heading toward Barra de Navidad, there are numerous towns and even resorts after you cross the mountains just beyond Boca de Tomatlán. For those who love to travel by water, take water taxis from “Boca” to nearby Quimixto, Majahuitas, Las Ánimas or Yelapa, all towns or dwellings accessible by water. Each has its own characteristics, so choose the one for you based on what you’re looking for.

Continuing over the mountains, you’ll pass through towns such as Las Juntas y Los Veranos, where a tequila distillery beckons to passersby. Across the road from the main buildings on the highway is the access to the canopy tour that takes you flying across the river for a sweet adventure. About one mile beyond the town as you continue south are the Botanical Gardens (vallartabotanicalgardensac.org) where you can not only enjoy a relaxing lunch with a view of the river below but also learn about orchids growing in their natural habitat. Nature walks take you up and down hills and valleys through fern grottoes, coffee plantations and more.

Another half-hour beyond the gardens is the mountain pueblo called El Tuito. The main plaza is located about six blocks to the right of the turnoff from the main highway. Take the trip into the past, where life continues at a slow mountain pace. Buy local cheeses from the family-run dairy, sit in the shade of the towering old trees in the main plaza or chat with locals who spend their days leisurely watching those who make it off the highway.

Use the Transportation section to find out how to get around.