Day Tripping From Puerto Vallarta
By Josef Kandoll W.

A favorite of locals, especially during the hot summer, are the mountain towns to the east. With new paved roads, access with a vehicle is easy. In earlier years they were only accessible by horseback, especially during the summer rains when the rocky roads would wash out. Primary access for tourists was by the small planes operating out of the charter terminal, sold as tours into the mountains with a morning flight out and afternoon return.

While summer is a great time to escape the coastal heat, winter requires appropriate wear based on cooler mountain weather conditions. There is a choice of accommodations ranging from historic haciendas to family-run posadas, and from classic inns to small hotels.

San Sebastián del Oeste is a 16th-century mining town founded by the Spanish in the eternal search for gold and riches. Primarily producing silver, this settlement was connected to the coast by the constant need for salt, hauled by burro up through the mountains along the river. The stone buildings and winding streets provide a picturesque walk through history, while the town plaza is one of the few in the country built on a sloping hillside, with the church parallel to it beyond the main square.

Talpa de Allende gained fame decades ago as home of the Virgin of Talpa, receiving pilgrims from around the surrounding countryside on special saint's days throughout the year, multiplying the population manifold. Accommodations vary from boarding houses to hotels, inns and dormitories with public showers. It also has numerous cafeteria-style restaurants, as well as any number of stores selling local goods and merchandise. The main plaza with its towering church is the obligatory stop for viewing the Virgin, but don't miss the fascinating museum just a block beyond the church.

Mascota continues to be a thriving agricultural town, serving not only the coast but inland as well. While the town may be the largest of the three, it probably receives the least amount of tourism, but it's not for lack of accommodations, places to see or things to do. Several posadas and inns are some of the best accommodations in the mountains, while the flower-filled main plaza is a good place for people-watching. They may be watching you as well!

Beyond the mountain towns as you continue along the same route is Guadalajara, capital of Jalisco, one of the largest cities in Mexico. Considered the "silicon valley" of the country, modern highways and high-rises characterize the bustling urban center. Nevertheless, the downtown area retains its original flavor with one of the largest extended plazas in the country-with the cathedral, Degollado Theater and Hospice Cabanas (with the ceilings painted by Orozco) anchoring the pleasant picturesque center. Guadalajara is also known for fabulous shopping of handcrafts, pottery and glassware in the nearby areas of Tonala, with its open-air Sunday market, and Tlaquepaque, with its numerous cafés and traditional parianes (markets), where you can enjoy mariachis while dining in the truly Mexican ambience of another time. You can stay at traditional hotels, modern high-rise business centers or several deluxe boutique hotels.

A side trip from Guadalajara is the town of Tequila, renowned for the liquor that is Mexico's gift to the world. Ask about the Tequila Express, a historic train trip that takes you to the small pueblo for a memorable day of tequila tasting, dining and mariachis.

Traveling north along Highway 200 toward Compostela offers easy side trips to the coastal towns of Sayulita and San Francisco. Both pueblos are growing, with developments of condominiums, private villas and homes populating the beachfront lots. Lodging for visitors ranges from hotels and inns to luxurious villas.

Sayulita is an internationally recognized destination on the surfers' circuit. While home to an annual surfing competition, it sports a surprisingly international flavor in stores, restaurants and cybercafés. A number of artists live here, with local classes offered throughout the season. Views from the hillside villas in the north are breathtaking. A local tour company offers horseback riding, four-wheeling and a canopy tour adventure.

San Francisco (San Pancho to locals) is known for the more authentic feel of a Mexican pueblo. The beach is wider and longer, with fewer people—and services are offered only at the beach entrance at the end of the main street. Turn north toward the resort area and you'll wind past new construction and eventually arrive at a smaller, even less-populated beach. The polo grounds are north of the main street shortly after you enter town, just before the football field. Polo matches are held on Saturday.

South along Highway 200 heading toward Barra de Navidad there are numerous towns and even resorts after you cross the mountains just beyond Boca de Tomatlán. For those who love to travel by water, take water taxis from "Boca" to nearby Quimixto, Majahuitas, Las Ánimas or Yelapa, all towns or dwellings accessible by water. Continuing over the mountains, you'll pass through Las Juntas y Los Veranos, where a tequila distillery beckons to passersby. Across the road from the main buildings on the highway is the access to the canopy tour that takes you flying across the river for a sweet adventure. About one mile beyond the town as you continue south are the Botanical Gardens, where you can not only enjoy a relaxing lunch with a view of the river below but also learn about orchids growing in their natural habitat. Nature walks beckon you up and down hills and valleys through fern grottoes, coffee groves and more.

Another half-hour beyond the gardens is the mountain pueblo called El Tuito. The main plaza is located about six blocks to the right of the turnoff from the main highway. Take the trip into the past, where life continues at a slow mountain pace. Buy local cheeses from the family-run dairy, sit in the shade of the towering old trees in the main plaza, or chat with locals who spend their days leisurely watching those who make it off the highway.

Use the Transportation section to find out how to get around.