Exquisite Edibles: Cuisine Is Haute In Puerto Vallarta
By Josef Kandoll W

Mexico is a world unto itself when it comes to dining and nightlife. Mexican cuisine ranks among the top five worldwide, and the time when nightlife in Puerto Vallarta was limited to bar-hopping and salty tequila shots has given way to a sophisticated restaurant/club scene that rivals the best in the United States.

Imagine, if you will, a world without chile or tomatoes, chocolate or coffee, all indigenous to Mexico, each contributing its unique essence to the gourmet world. Consider lesser-known flavors such as huitlacoche, the exquisite taste of corn rust for the adventurous. Or the numerous moles, with so many regional varieties, far beyond the "sauce made from chocolate" that was so touted years back. (In fact, moles are created from over 30 spices and natural ingredients, one of which may include an extract of the cacao bean, known as chocolate in a refined form.) In this region, beef, chicken or pork are marinated in a rich mole blend to create a sauce that touches your very soul.

Puerto Vallarta stands at the pinnacle of the culinary movement in Mexico, due in great part to the growing phenomenon of the annual Festival Gourmet, covered elsewhere in this website, as well as to the history of the surrounding area with its agricultural base. As the world continues to visit and settle in the bay area, the town's taste is influenced by regions as diverse as the Mediterranean, Brazil, the Caribbean, Asia, Germany, France and beyond. Although "fusion" is a popular word to describe Puerto Vallarta's cuisine, perhaps a more apt way to describe it is simply as recipes from ancient, pre-Columbian times with modern preparation methods.

When you feel like walking around town, go to the area unofficially called Old Town, a casual grouping that includes the Zona Romántica (Romantic Zone), the Isla Río Cuale and El Centro (Downtown). You can explore along these streets without a guide or a map, and each section offers something different: perhaps a classy boutique, a shop with glass-blowing demonstrations or bars and restaurants. Use your instincts and this guide for up-to-date ideas on where to dine.

The cuisine ranges from the best signature cuisines in the country to numerous restaurants recognized internationally for gourmet fare to casual eateries or bistros. A number of restaurants boast balconies or terraces that offer tantalizing views of the sea or the Malecón (seaside promenade). Whether your pleasure is to people-watch or bay-watch, a margarita is an excellent way to start off. Great views extend over the Río Cuale, which cuts from the mountains to the sea on the southern end of downtown. Cross the river on the new pedestrian bridge, but instead of continuing across, take the steps that lead you onto the island, one of the most romantic spots in the city.

Don't forget to explore the foothills above downtown and the Romantic Zone. Breathtaking views give you the world, the city and the sea right at your feet, with stars overhead. And the evening fireworks light up the horizon just off the Malecón, which forms a protective seawall for the heart of downtown. Dine in gourmet delight in magical interior gardens where the world beyond the walls fades away. Waterfalls trickle and wind chimes tinkle. Candlelight flickers. Only the present moment exists.

South of the Old Town is an area with some of the most stunning views of the coast, where rugged rocks intersperse with sandy coves. Several exclusive restaurants in the area provide romantic tables above the cliffs, some with facilities for events and weddings. Further along the south shore, look for the popular country-style, palapa-covered outdoor dining experiences. Ride in on horseback and dine in jeans and sandals with waterfalls as a backdrop.

North of downtown in the fast-growing Hotel Zone, you'll find many of the familiar fast-food establishments that provide a play area for kids and even drive-up windows. When your children crave something fast and filling, follow the natives' example and take them to a taco stand. Quesadillas, tacos, burritos, tamales and more are some of the local offerings of popular cuisine, all at very reasonable prices. There's nothing so close to heaven as the noble taco late at night. If you know any locals, ask them where to go, or better yet, accompany them to a street side puesto (stand). Devour the hot, dripping tacos standing up or sitting down, concentrating totally on the pleasure of the moment.

Marina Vallarta is the classic mooring for boats, yachts and cruisers of all kinds. In addition to bars and clubs, the marina area is not only home to high-class upscale dining, but also offers a unique view at water level. Walk the curve of the casual malecón of the marina and shop, eat and drink. Enjoy cocktails at the top of the lighthouse where the 360-degree view is unmatched. Sunset lingers and time stands still.

Wherever you decide to stay in Puerto Vallarta, you are close to some of the best cuisine in the country. Whether you choose sophisticated, unique, upscale, trendy or traditional family fare, you'll eat well in Puerto Vallarta. If your stomach has anything to say about it, you'll be back to stay with us really soon. ¡Buen provecho!

Authentic Mexican Flavor
By Josef Kandoll W

Whether Luis Fitch is in or out of the kitchen, preparing food or eating it, he says, "I can't escape the Mexican flavors. They are essential to the palate here: sour, salty, spicy and acid. The basics in any family kitchen are beans, tortillas, chiles and salsas." Fitch, chef and owner of the chic Los Xitomates in downtown Puerto Vallarta, focuses on what he describes as "high-end artisan Mexican cuisine" to reflect what he felt was missing in the area. "Many of the chefs here are foreign," he says, "and their focus is based on their own experiences, which is as it should be. But my total memory is of that spicy, tangy, chile flavor. My little kids, for example, love to suck on the tamarind candies sprinkled with red chile powder. For us, that's the innate taste, almost as if we're born with it."

"My family are restaurateurs, from my grandmother to my brother and me; we ran a restaurant together in Querétaro where I come from. Life was centered on good food and, in fact, the real reason I like to cook is because I love to eat." His favorite dishes are reflected in the menu, which includes tortilla soup, worth traveling long distances to enjoy. Two dishes that were created here locally are the salmon served in a poblano chile sauce and the seared tuna with grilled chayote. Los Xitomates is definitely a place all "foodies" should make sure to visit.
www.losxitomates.com

Get a complete list of restaurants here.

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